Philippine Coffee: A Heritage of Rich Flavors and Local Varieties
While still a predominantly instant coffee-drinking country, the Philippines is fast becoming more aware of the simple pleasures that only freshly brewed coffee can bring. The Filipinos’ love for coffee has gone beyond the energy boost it provides, but a true appreciation for their unique flavors and, ultimately, their origins. Truly, at the end of the day, it is all about the bean.
The Rich History of Philippine Coffee
In the Philippines, coffee has a history as rich as its flavor. The first coffee tree was introduced in Lipa, Batangas in 1740 by a Spanish Franciscan monk. From there, coffee growing spread to other parts of Batangas like Ibaan, Lemery, San Jose, Taal, and Tanauan. Batangas owed much of its wealth to the coffee plantations in these areas and Lipa eventually became the coffee capital of the Philippines. By the 1860s, Batangas was exporting coffee to America through San Francisco. In 1880, the Philippines was the fourth largest exporter of coffee beans, and when the coffee rust hit Brazil, Africa, and Java, it became the only source of coffee beans worldwide.
The glory days of the Philippine coffee industry lasted until 1889 when coffee rust hit the Philippine shores. That, coupled with an insect infestation, destroyed virtually all the coffee trees in Batangas. Since Batangas was a major producer of coffee, this greatly affected national coffee production. During the 1950s, the Philippine government, with the help of the Americans, brought in a more resistant variety of coffee. Today, the Philippines produces 30,000 metric tons of coffee a year, up from 23,000 metric tons just three years ago.
Understanding the Four Main Coffee Varieties
The Philippines is one of the few countries that produces the four varieties of commercially-viable coffee: Arabica, Liberica (Barako), Excelsa and Robusta. Climatic and soil conditions in the Philippines – from the lowland to mountain regions – make the country suitable for all four varieties. Below is a summary of their unique characteristics:
| Variety | Taste Profile | Common Regions |
|---|---|---|
| Arabica | Smooth texture, hint of sweetness, caramel, chocolate, or fruit notes. | Sagada and Benguet |
| Liberica (Barako) | Strong punch, unique smokey and chocolatey taste, spicy and floral undertones. | Batangas |
| Excelsa | Dark, tart, mysterious, and fruity taste. | Lowland to mountain regions |
| Robusta | Trace of bitterness, powerful taste, rubbery and grainy texture. | Cordillera (Kalinga) |
Detailed Characteristics
- Arabica: It is loved all over the world as it is the most popular type of coffee. It is known for its smooth texture, with a hint of sweetness at the end.
- Liberica: Better known as Kapeng Barako, a coffee type that’s either loved or hated, never in between. The flavors might be overwhelming to some and its texture is usually dense.
- Excelsa: This has been described as a “teardrop” shape that gives a resemblance to Liberica, hence it is much smaller than the average size. It is somewhat described by some coffee enthusiasts as “mysterious to the palate”.
- Robusta: In the Philippines, this coffee is widely popular in Cordillera, wherein people named Robusta coffee Kalinga Brew. Robusta has more than 90% of coffee come out to our country.
Rising to the Occasion: Local Producers and Roasters
With this growing interest in coffee locally, our Filipino coffee growers and roasters have taken their cue and are rising to the occasion. Businessmen have seen the potential of coffee farming and the interest in locally-sourced products as well as a keen international market.
Mirabueno Coffee’s specialty robusta, enhanced by the expert roasting of SGD, won a coveted gourmet award in 2019 by the AVPA in Milan. Sold exclusively at SGD Coffee in Quezon City and Kapetolyo in Manila, it exhibits pronounced notes of chocolate nibs, dark cherries, butterscotch, and floral aromas.
In Makati, coffee haunt Commune in the trendy Poblacion area is doing its share in demonstrating the superiority of the local beans. Their coffee selection boasts a 100% Philippine coffee line-up—from their single origin Arabicas from Benguet and Bukidnon, to the Commune Blend composed of Benguet Arabica and Cavite Robusta showing notes of milk chocolate and marshmallow.
Cailles Coffee House in Lipa, Batangas flourished during the pandemic thanks to the boom in home brewers. Among her single origins, her bourbon Arabica from Atok, Benguet stands out with its intense chocolate and molasses. Her Batangas Liberica is a more delicious and herbaceous interpretation of the Barako, a refined counterpoint to its reputed brawny and bold characteristics.
The local coffee producers still have a long way to go compared to their South American or African counterparts, but both local and international drinkers can attest to its promise. Encouraged by rising demand coupled with the constantly evolving tastes of an adventurous market, our local coffee beans are ready to take on the challenge.
